Foreign Invaders

Christ Church Cathedral

      Dublin is very much a touristy city, which becomes evident from Friday to Monday every week, when thousands of people from all over the world descend upon it. I am one of those people, though I try to act like a local. After going to the coast on Friday, and going out to dinner at a nice Italian restaurant on Saturday, my friends wanted to relax. I, on the other hand, like being out and about in the city. So, after going for a run (which has really helped me learn the city), then going to church, I set off toward the city centre. Rathmines is only about a 20 to 30 minute walk from the Liffey River, which separates the downtown area, and though I could take the bus, I usually try to walk. Since there are so many tourists, I tried to get out early, but it is also a Sunday, so nothing in Dublin opens early. At about 10, I began my walk to the city, and I got there at about 10:30. Before I had left I had made a list of all the places that I would like to see in Dublin and have not yet, and what time they opened. The one that opened the earliest was Dublinia, which is connected to Christ Church Cathedral by a bridge and is about the vikings, who were the first settlers of Dublin. As I walked down Dame Street to the museum, Christ Church's bells rang out into the morning silence. Christ Church Cathedral is 'officially' claimed by both the Catholic Church and the Church of Ireland (Anglican), but it only performs Anglican masses. The first cathedral was founded around 1028 but the Hiberno (Irish)- Norse king of Dublin, which is why the Dublinia has its museum in the adjacent building. Dublin was founded by the vikings around the 9th century, and they held control of it until the Norman Invasion of Ireland. As you can see, Ireland is always being invaded. Fun Fact: Ireland was settled by the vikings even before they settled Iceland, which would not be settled until later in the ninth century.
       Normally, you can buy a dual ticket for both the Cathedral and Dublinia, but as it is a Sunday and there are morning masses, that was not an option. Excited--because I really have not had enough history in my life this week-- I strolled into the museum and bought my ticket. The museum is three stories high, and on each level there is a different aspect of the viking era. On the first level they talk about the vikings in general, why they came, their clashes with the native Irish, and daily life. On the second level they look at how the vikings mixed with the Irish, and then were joined later by the Anglo-Normans, and how Dublin became an international city. On the top level there is an exhibition on the on going excavations and archaeology work going on in Dublin.
    

A recreation of the inside of a viking home. It does not look very pleasant in my opinion, but I suppose it was liveable, and certainly the Irish winter would have been better than a Scandinavian one; it is hard to blame them for settling in Ireland.

Like the rest of Europe, Ireland was hit hard by the Black Death in the 14th century due to its trade connections. The Black Death was spread through the rats, fleas, and humans that carried it across the trade routes that connected the Medieval world. It would have catastrophic effects on the population.

View from the tower

At the end of the tour, before you go through the gift shop, you have the opportunity to climb St. Micheal's tower. It is not a part of the museum really, but they promise that if you climb up the 96 steps to the top you will get a panoramic view of the city. So, being young and able, I opted to climb up to the top, and it truly was a grand view. Back down I went then, and crossed over the bridge to Christ Church Cathedral, where I could hear mass taking place. It was about noon then, and nothing else was open yet, so I walked down Dame Street looking for a cafe to sit in. As I passed an alley I noticed the Queen of Tarts, a bright firetruck red shop whose name I remembered seeing in the little notebook that I had gotten from Aunt Val for my birthday which had been Catherine's from when she was in Dublin. I walked in and immediately knew that it was a magical place because there were pastries all over the shop that looked amazing. I was seated by the window and after looking at the menu I ordered a pot of tea and a apple scone (not gluten free, but we only live once). It was all fantastic, and I will definitely have to go back there, especially since I noticed that they have some gluten free desserts.

Dublin Castle

Bedford Tower

       I had spent a relaxing half hour in the cafe, and after checking my list I noticed that Dublin Castle, which had once been a symbol of British rule, was now open. I had often passed the 'castle' (I put the word in quotation marks because it does not really look like a castle) as it is right off of Dame Street, but I had never entered the complex. Dublin Castle was the seat of British rule until 1922, when it was handed over to Michael Collins (remember our old friend?). True to history, they actually filmed a bit of the movie in the courtyard in front of Bedford Tower. The buildings were quite British looking (as expected) and the inside revealed how British it really was, with Queen Victoria, and various King Georges decorating the walls. I opted for the self guided tour as the next guided tour was not for another hour, and with the map provided I wandered through the various rooms at a leisurely pace.The Castle was first founded as a major defensive work on the orders of King John of England in the 1200s (the same King John that the legendary Robin Hood fought against). In the 17th century, the fort was destroyed by a fire, and was then rebuilt and modified to be a place of government. During the Anglo-Irish War (called the Irish War of Independence by the Irish), it was the nerve center of the British effort against Irish nationalism. After the war, it was converted once again and has state apartments that are used by the Irish government.

The Drawing Room. Most of it was destroyed in 1941 when a fire broke out, but it has been recreated to look as it would have in the 1830s, with Louis XVI style furniture and carvings of Hercules and the muses, along with portraits of lords and ladies.

St. Patrick's Hall. This former State Dining Room features portraits of thirteen of the 19th century Viceroys of Ireland. Though you cannot tell there are two massive paintings on the ceiling.

The ceiling, which has three paintings. One is of St. Patrick introducing Christianity to Ireland, another is of the coronation of King George III, and the other of King Henry II receiving submission of the Irish Chieftans.